Having problems with your 1999 Volvo S70 ?
I need to replace the crankshaft poistion sensor
\015 I know i need to replace the crankshaft poistion sensor. i found on-line parts at a fraction of the cost quoted to me by a dealer. is this a job i can do by myself? where is the crankshaft position sensor and how easy is it to access and change out? Thanks!\015
- \015\012(An afterthought) Loosen crankshaft pulley bolt. See step 8-9. \015\012
- \015\012Remove battery and battery tray. \015\012
- \015\012Remove front engine strut brace and bracket. (These two steps aren't necessary,\015\012but they make the job SO much easier. By taking these off you wouldn't\015\012believe how much more room it makes in your engine compartment.) \015\012
- \015\012Unplug the two connections to the DIS module and then remove the intake\015\012manifold resonance chamber connector. Just loosen the 4 screws on\015\012the hose clamps and take the two bolts on the top side of the connector\015\012out and you should be able to 'wiggle' the connector out of the rubber\015\012fittings. \015\012
- \015\012Remove the two serpentine belts. To do this you will need to loosen\015\012the tension on each belt. To relieve the tension you need to loosen\015\012the tensioner pulley bolt (there are two, one for each belt) and then you\015\012will need to use the allen head screw that is at the top of each tensioner\015\012assembly to loosen the belt. This may sound confusing without looking\015\012at the car, but, the belt for the air conditioning and air pump will tighten\015\012by the pulley moving down. The belt for the P.S. pump will tighten\015\012with the pulley moving up. However, in Ford's wisdom (and I do applaud\015\012them for this, once I figured it out) they set up the threads on the allen\015\012screws such that your normal loosening of a screw will loosen each belt,\015\012and tightening each screw will tighten each belt. \015\012
- \015\012You may want to remove the pulley for the P.S. pump belt and the whole\015\012tensioner assembly for the A.C. belt just to make more room for yourself\015\012to get at the timing cover bolts. \015\012
- \015\012Remove the upper timing cover. At this point, you should see a wire\015\012(actually 4 wires inside of the black plastic sheath) running down the\015\012block behind where the timing cover was. This is the crankshaft position\015\012sensor wiring harness. Follow these up and unplug the two connectors\015\012at the top of the engine. One is a single wire connector that is\015\012a ground for noise insulation and the other is the signal connector. \015\012After unplugging these, snake the wire down behind the timing belt. \015\012
- \015\012Remove passenger's side front wheel and wheel well cover. The wheel\015\012well cover can be a pain but with the proper tugging and bending you should\015\012be able to pop it out. This will give all you doorjamb waxers a whole\015\012new place to clean, especially considering how much SAND poured onto the\015\012ground when I removed mine. Removing these gives you a ton of room\015\012to get to the things at the lower part of the engine. \015\012
- \015\012Remove crankshaft pulley. This is probably the tougher part of the\015\012job. You will need a harmonic balancer puller or steering wheel puller\015\012to get this off once you get the crankshaft pulley bolt off. To get\015\012the crankshaft pulley bolt off you will more likely than not want to use\015\012the starter. I have a 1/2" air impact wrench that couldn't budge\015\012the bolt even with my 6 HP compressor (11 CFM at 90 PSI). If you\015\012have a big 3/4" impact wrench you might be able to get it off but it is\015\012awfully easy to use the starter. Just place the socket wrench (I\015\012used a 1/2" 19 mm deep socket) and rest the handle of the wrench on the\015\012frame rail to the front of the car (in front of the pulley, that\015\012is). Then just bump the starter and I mean just BUMP. It really\015\012takes no more than a tap... you will hear a loud clunk as the slack in\015\012the wrench is taken up by the slamming of the wrench into the frame rail\015\012and then Viola! the nut will be nice and loose. NOTE: You may\015\012want to do this first, before removing the battery. After this bolt\015\012is off, just use the puller with 2.5" long M8 hex head screws and take\015\012the pulley off. \015\012
- \015\012Remove the lower timing cover off. When doing this, note the location\015\012of the different length screws. \015\012
- \015\012Now you should clearly see the sensor. You can remove these two screws\015\012(They seemed pretty tight to me) and then remove the sensor and wiring. \015\012One of the most difficult parts was removing the wire from the 'snap fit'\015\012in the middle timing cover assembly. The Chilton's manual suggested\015\012to remove the middle cover, but you can't do this without remove one bolt\015\012on the P.S. belt tensioner assembly that was a real PITA to get to so I\015\012just dealt with it in place. To get the wire out just pull at it\015\012and wiggle it until it pops out. IT is tough, though. \015\012
- \015\012If you can't remove the sensor (the screws are out but the sensor won't\015\012come out) then the sensor is 'stuck' in one of the vanes on the vane 'ring'\015\012that is on the crankshaft. The Chiltons manual says to turn the crank\015\012by hand - HA! Yeah, right, and I can bench press 800 pounds too. \015\012What I found was real easy for turning the motor was to place the lug wrench\015\012in between two lugs on the passenger's side hub and then put the car in\015\012fifth gear and turn the driver's side wheel (assuming the whole front\015\012end is off the ground). Of course this won't work if you have an\015\012automatic so you may have to put the crank pulley back on and use leverage\015\012in between the two removal bolts to turn the crank. Just make sure\015\012you turn it the right direction and have extra removal bolts as spares\015\012since you will probably bend them.
- \015\012After installing the new sensor, you need to adjust the gap between one\015\012vane and the sensor. To do this, you will have to rotate the crank\015\012after the new sensor is in so that there is a vane in place, so to speak\015\012and then measure this gap. The gap should be 0.8mm / 0.03 inch. \015\012
- \015\012To install the crank pulley, I used a small piece of a 2"x4" and a hammer\015\012to tap the pulley in far enough that I could just use the crank pulley\015\012bolt to pull it in the rest of the way. I had bought an M14 bolt\015\012to use for this task but the threads are NOT M14. I'm not quite sure\015\012why they use a standard thread or worse, a rare M13 bolt, but I didn't\015\012bother to measure it. It is not preferred to tap the pulley on due\015\012to the thrust loads on the crank bearings, but people have been doing it\015\012for decades with seemingly no ill effects. \015\012
- \015\012Installing the wire of the sensor back into the 'snap fit' that I referred\015\012to earlier was a BIG PITA. What I found worked the best is to apply\015\012a little grease to the rubber housing (you'll see what I mean if you ever\015\012take one out) and then snap it in with the male end of a 1/4" socket extension. \015\012
- \015\012Other than this everything is the reverse of the removal steps. Make\015\012sure you tighten the serpentine belts properly upon reinstallation. \015\012Now would also be a good time to change them if they look old or worn. \015\012
- \015\012The above steps are identical to what you need if you are changing the\015\012timing belts or the water pump (except for a few extra steps at the end).
Repair Help & Product Troubleshooting for 1999 Volvo S70
Tips for a great answer:- Provide details, support with references or personal experience .
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box .
- It's 100% free, no registration required.