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How to bleed hydraulic clutch
\015 How to bleed a clutch for an honda accord\015
1) The Hydraulic system should be \012bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the \012fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the \012clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the \012system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. \012The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on \012gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding \012effect. \012
2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid \012conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the \012fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid \012from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of \012time.
3) Raise the vehicle and place it \012securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you \012chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left \012side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as \012level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set \012parking brake for extra safety...
4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and \012push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the \012hose into a clear container.
5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid \012will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the \012release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. \012Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch \012master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole \012process will have to be started over.
6) Close the bleeder valve.
7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress \012the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the \012clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the \012assistant release the pedal.
8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds \012each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release \012it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble \012reduction.
9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.
10) \012The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to \012disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.
11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the \012system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder \012valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.
12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully \012for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid \012level.
Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the \012bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may \012be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will \012either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master \012cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small \012mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all \012over.
Alternate Technique: (these provided by Dirk). Here is one way you can try \012that really worked great for him.
1) Disconnect the hose from the bottom of the fluid \012reservoir
2) Use a hand pump to manually \012force the fluid down the line.
3) Reconnect \012line to reservoir after process and fill fluid as needed.
Note: The reverse bleeding procedure will not work on all rangers. Some \012rangers' bleeder is nothing but a tapered hex bolt with a hole in it, no real \012way to get a good seal on it.
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