Having problems with your 2004 Volkswagen Passat ?

My o4 passat w8 4motion has trouble code p0011, p0016. cam over advance, and cam/crank position corrilation

Posted / edited by AnonymousUser on : 20-11-2017

Answers :

As far as i remember these vehicles had problems with the timing change stretching. depending on the miles you may be able to have vw do this replacement for free
I believe this to be the ultimate summation concerning the W8 cam\012 adjuster/P0021/P0011 code and will show there is more to this than just\012 shock treatment of the solenoids:
\012
\012The following is a focus on cleaning the adjustor Solenoid/Valve \012assembly which I am convinced is the heart of the problem and what \012should be dealt with every time. If you want to read a more \012comprehensive overview of the W8 cam adjustor issue then look for my \012long posting under user name Billj3cub at:
\012\012
\012http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?3943349-03-Passat-W8-Torque-Converter-and-Cam-Adjuster-Problem-in-last-10-days/page4
\012
\012\012 Note: Regarding the solenoid shock treatment, you don't need to \012reverse polarity. The plunger will extend out of the solenoid regardless\012 of\012 the polarity.
\012
\012Another note: In the following description I call the parts a Valve and Valve Body because they are miniature\012 versions of a automatic transmission valve and valve body.
\012\012
\012When doing the solenoid shock treatment, if the solenoid clicks then it \012is probably good. If it does not click then pretty much\012 guaranteed the valve is stuck depressed down in the valve body, the\012 spring can't push the valve back up, the plunger is hanging fully\012 extended out of the solenoid (it only moves 0.070"), and you will\012 not hear a click because the solenoid is already fully extended. The\012 solenoid is quite powerful, especially when applying 12 volts to it \012(computer only applies 5 volts),\012 but the return spring is weak by comparison so if the valve is going\012 to get stuck, it will get stuck in the downward position. That is\012 what I have always found. If all 4 solenoids click but you are still\012 getting cam adjustor codes then I would disassemble and inspect all\012 4 solenoids using the procedure below. The valve under the solenoid\012 is the weak link that is most susceptible to sticking, the actual\012 cam adjuster/sprockets are very tough and very, very tolerant of \012wear,\012 debris, gunk, etc. Indeed, the chambers in the adjustable sprocket \012assemblys will chew up and spit out anything that goes in there. I will \012gladly pay to have anyone with a supposedly worn out adjustable sprocket\012 assembly send it to me so I can inspect it.
\012\012 What has\012 likely jammed the valve in the body are pieces of the super-fine\012 mesh screen that was built into the solenoid holder and always comes\012 apart over time. I have seen a new set of solenoids and their holder\012 (big$$$) and the screen is a slightly thicker more robust material than\012 original but I would never reinstall that unit, new or old, without\012 tearing the whole screen out regardless.
\012\012
\012\012 The following procedure should take about two hours from start of\012 tear down to finish of reassembly:
\012\012 Take the intake manifold off.
\012\012 Remove the valve cover.
\012\012 IMPORTANT: Disconnect the battery so you cannot mistakenly turn the\012 engine over then stuff rags into the cam drive openings around the\012 chains and gears quite thoroughly so nothing can fall down there.\012 Get even the smallest item stuck down low in the chain/gears where\012 you can't reach it and it is game over.
\012\012 Remove the two Torx screws that hold the solenoid on. Use a strong\012 pencil magnet to catch the screws even though you previously stuffed\012 rags in the cam drive opening. Every caution you take will be worth\012 it.
\012\012 Using two flat bladed screwdrivers carefully pry the solenoid as\012 straight up out of its holder as you can. If it does not come out\012 perfectly straight don't worry. When prying out, one of two things\012 will happen:
\012\012 1) If the solenoid breaks off the valve body, leaving the valve body\012 behind in the holder, then carefully clean out the 3 cracked or\012 chipped edges of the valve body where they were crimped/staked\012 around the solenoid. It will be obvious what I am talking about when\012 you are looking at these parts.
\012\012 You will see the valve in the valve body with an offset oil passage\012 hole near the center. That oil hole delivers oil to the solenoid for\012 cooling and lubrication purposes.
\012\012 Stick a straight pick tool with a tapered shaft in that hole and gently\012 put sideways pressure on the tool while drawing the valve straight out. If it stuck, and it will be,\012 (remember why we are in there?) then try alternately (gently!)\012 pushing, pulling and twirling until it eventually starts moving and\012 you can draw it out. Take your time and don't force it. It will come\012 out faster than you initially think. You don't want to unnecessarily\012 score or chip the valve or the bore it rides in. Pull the spring out\012 of the bottom of the bore with a pick tool and carefully set it\012 aside. Every one I have taken apart that was stuck had either tiny\012 bits of screen or large chunks of screen or something in between.\012 The valve is really simple, just wipe it clean.
\012\012 Cleaning the valve body is more difficult. I suggest you remove all\012 those rags you stuffed in the cam drive area, unplug the ignition \012coils from the other side of the motor if you have not already, hook up \012the battery,\012 then have an assistant crank over the motor and let oil pressure\012 flush out the debris until you are satisfied the body is clear. If \012you see the motor is all sludged up after removing the valve covers then\012 this flushing procedure will verify that oil is flowing to the cam \012adjustors. You will see oil pulsing backwards out of the cam adjustor \012sprocket assembly supply passeges toward the back of the motor then you \012will see oil flowing out of the supply passage toward the front of the \012motor. Clear out all of the oil in the valve body bore with paper \012towels, rags or compressed air (messy but it works) to verify any and \012all debris are gone. All this work takes less time to do than to say.
\012A word of advise here: I am not satisfied with purging the oil while \012leaving the valve body in its holder. There could still be debris \012trapped around the valve body and its bore that may not flush out \012immediately. If you look at where the base of the valve body would be \012you will see a cut out in the holder. Stick a large screwdriver in there\012 and twist really hard or use a bearing puller tool that has a short \012stubby hook to hook the valve body and tap upwards. The 4 O-rings will \012be quite stuck in the bore but it WILL come out. Any scratches or \012chipping you cause on the bottom of the valve body are inconsequential. \012Now clean the removed parts and crank the motor over to flush the oil \012out of the valve body bore.
\012\012 2) If the solenoid and valve body pull out of the holder as an\012 assembly then you will have to pry the valve body off the solenoid\012 then follow the procedure outlined above after 1) above. If the \012valve body does come out of the bore then after all the cleaning you can\012 assemble the valve, valve body and solenoid together then apply 12 \012volts to the assembly and watch the valve shuttle back and forth in its \012body through the slots in the side of the body.
\012\012
\012\012 Disconnect the battery and again pack rags back around the cam drive\012 to protect against dropsies then carefully place the spring back in\012 the bore making sure the spring is not crooked in the bottom of the \012valve body! Push down on the valve to verify that it plungs down and \012returns smoothly then place the solenoid straight back down into \012position then\012 carefully fasten the solenoid in place with the two Torx screws. The\012 original crimping of the solenoid to the valve body is not needed here,\012 that was only for original production assembly. Now\012 would be a good time to drive the solenoid with battery voltage a \012few dozen times to hear that satisfying "click" and gain confidence\012 that the valve is indeed free and not wanting to hang up.
\012\012 Pull the rags out, install the valve cover, reassemble the rest of\012 the intake, hoses and solenoid connectors. Drive the car around and\012 be glad you did not unnecessarily have a shop remove the motor,\012 replace the cam adjusters and solenoid assembly and blow $8,000 when\012 all it takes is a few hours work to clean the solenoids. Think of it\012 as regular maintenance (until all the screen material is gone) like\012 cleaning the throttle body or replacing the spark plugs. The best\012 part is you know exactly what you are doing and why you are doing it\012 and can easily do it again if needed. No Fear, No Worry, No Sweat.\012 The W8 lives again.
\012\012
\012\012 Editorial:
\012\012 I am torn between the two: Had this clear understanding and\012 procedure (and $300 verses $8,000 to have a shop do it) been known 5\012 years ago the W8 market would still be strong today and I would not\012 have been able to get mine soooo cheep. But I do shed a tear for the\012 untold millions of dollars unnecessarily thrown away and all the\012 broken hearted owners that had to walk away from their dream car all\012 from one unnecessary screen and one tiny valve that was easily\012 cleaned.
Repair Help & Product Troubleshooting for 2004 Volkswagen Passat

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